Frequently Asked Questions
What owners, dealers, service departments and storage operators ask us before they order.
The Mint Chemistry
What is mentha arvensis, and why that species?
Mentha arvensis is wild mint, also called corn mint — the species grown commercially for menthol extraction. Its oil is considerably sharper than the peppermint most people have in a garden. That intensity is the point: the product depends on a concentrated mint volatile, not a pleasant background fragrance.
What does the mentha do?
Mentha — cornmint oil — derived components are part of the carrier chemistry that gives Repel Gel its body. The carrier is what holds the mint actives on the underbody and lets them release slowly, instead of flashing off the way a thin spray does. Both halves of the formula are naturally derived.
Why do rodents avoid mint?
Rodents assess spaces primarily by scent. A concentrated mint volatile saturates that channel — it does not just smell strong, it interferes with the information a small prey animal relies on to decide whether a space is safe. Given a choice, they take the space where their senses still work. We would rather describe the mechanism honestly than quote a percentage we cannot stand behind.
Will the whole RV smell like mint?
The product goes on the underbody, not in the living space. You will notice mint when you are under the unit or standing next to it fresh out of the shop, and it settles down considerably from there. Most owners describe the residual as clean rather than strong.
What It Is and Is Not
Is this a poison or a rodenticide?
No. It is a repellent undercoating. There is no bait in it and nothing for an animal to eat. It works by making a space unattractive to enter, not by harming anything that enters it — which is why there is no bait station to service and no carcass to find later.
Is it a coating or a pest product?
Both, honestly, and that is the reason it exists. The gel is applied to the underbody as a protective coating on surfaces that wanted a coating anyway, and the mint chemistry in it deters rodents at the same time. If you were already planning to undercoat, you are getting the deterrence at no extra step.
How does it compare to other underbody repellent coatings?
Same category — underbody-applied rodent deterrent coatings for RVs and trailers. The differences come down to formula and carrier. Ours is built on mentha arvensis (cornmint) and mentha piperita (peppermint) derived chemistry in a gel body, from a manufacturer whose main business is industrial coatings. We would encourage you to compare data sheets rather than take our word for it; ask us for ours.
Do I still need to seal up the holes?
Yes, and anyone who tells you otherwise is overselling. This is one strong layer, not a force field. Close the obvious gaps, keep food out of a stored unit, and use the coating to make the underbody the least attractive option in the lot. Three imperfect layers beat one perfect claim.
Ordering, Coverage & Application
How much do I need for my unit?
That depends on chassis length, underbody configuration, and how much of the belly pan is exposed. Rather than publish a coverage rate that may not match the current formulation, we will send you the technical data sheet as issued and help you work out quantity for your specific unit. Tell us the make, model, and length.
How often does it need to be reapplied?
Any scent-based product depletes eventually — the gel carrier is what stretches that from weeks to seasons. Most owners tie the refresh to their storage cycle and inspect at winterization. The current data sheet carries the actual interval guidance, and we will send it rather than guess here.
Do I need spray equipment to apply it?
No. It can be brushed on. The gel has enough body to be loaded onto a brush and worked onto a surface, including overhead, without running off. Spraying is faster and worth the equipment on a long or complex underbody or a row of units, but it is a speed choice, not a requirement. An owner with a brush and a creeper, or a dealership's lot porter with a bucket, can apply it without buying a rig.
What prep does the underbody need?
Degrease it and let it dry — road film is the number one reason any underbody coating underperforms. Remove loose scale, flaking old undercoat, and packed mud. Fix any active water leak before you coat over it. Then walk the underbody and note every penetration, because those are your coverage priorities.
Do you sell to dealers and storage lots, or only retail?
Both. Individual owners can buy a single unit's worth, and dealers, storage operators, fleets, and manufacturers buy by the pallet at volume pricing. Mention your region and approximate annual volume when you contact us and we will include the schedule and private-label options.
What surfaces and unit types does it go on?
Underbodies — campers, RVs and motorhomes, travel trailers and fifth wheels, utility and cargo trailers, mobile and manufactured homes, and work vehicles and equipment that sit between uses. Frame rails, crossmembers, belly pan or underbelly membrane, wheel well returns, and every wiring and plumbing penetration.
Dealers, Service Departments & Trade Buyers
How do camper and RV dealers actually use it?
Three ways, and most dealers end up doing all three. On receipt, as protection for inventory that will sit through a season on a lot you still own. At PDI, as a dealer-added value item handed over with the unit. And in the service department, as a paid line on a winterization or storage-prep ticket.
Do mobile home dealers use it too?
Yes, and the geometry actually suits it better. A manufactured home's underbelly membrane and crawl space are almost entirely overhead surfaces that nobody inspects, and a skirted home is awkward to get spray equipment under. A brushable gel is applied by a crew with buckets.
Can a service department sell it as an add-on?
That is one of the more common uses. October and November are already booked with winterization work, the prep is the same degreasing your techs already do, and the customer has usually already asked about mice unprompted. Tell us your typical unit mix and we will help you build a per-unit cost so the line prices with a real margin.
What does rodent and insect damage actually cost a dealer?
We will not quote you a figure we cannot stand behind, but the shape of the bill is consistent: it is diagnostic labor, not parts. A conductor chewed partway through works until it does not, so a technician traces an intermittent fault through a loom bundled behind a wall. Add contaminated belly pan insulation, which means dropping the pan, and soft goods that get replaced rather than cleaned. Then add the timing — it surfaces at the delivery walk-through or after handover, which is when it costs the most beyond the invoice.
How do I open a dealer account?
Contact us with your region, lot size, typical unit mix, and approximate annual volume. You will get the wholesale schedule, the current technical data sheet and SDS, and WatchGuard private-label options. We ship single units through pallet volume nationwide.
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